Carlisle to Ravenglass
If you’re seeking some non-Roman history look no further than Burgh-by-Sands; still on the line of the Wall, it was the scene of Edward I’s death and lying-in-state. Or gaze at private Drumburgh Castle, a fortified farmhouse from the Border Reiver period. Bowness-on-Solway is the beginning (or end) of the Hadrian’s Wall Path National Trail (the Path also passes through Port Carlisle where canals follow the line of the Wall) and the village sits on the stunning Solway Firth (an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and haven for birdlife).
Hug the coast and you’ll reach Silloth-on-Solway with its remarkable views and the Solway Coast Discovery Centre. Started by the Romans (we’ve a lot to thank them for), Maryport is a great base for exploring the coast as well as absorbing Roman influences at the Senhouse Roman Museum, home to an internationally important collection of Roman altars (thanks to Agrippa who started the craze). Not far is the excavated turf and timber Swarthy Hill Milefort, part of the Roman coastal defence system.
Georgian Whitehaven is the starting point for the Sea to Sea (C2C) cycleway and has the fascinating Rum Story tracing the origins of the UK’s rum trade. The town is a good jumping-off point for Hardknott Fort (little remains but there are fabulous views) or Moresby Fort (outline earthworks). Not far are serene and atmospheric 900-year-old St Bees Priory and 800-year-old Muncaster Castle; both have fascinating stories to tell that the Romans would never have heard. The spectacular cliffs at St Bees Head are home to the largest seabird colony in north-west England.
The Romans go out with a flourish at Ravenglass, home to the tallest remains on the Roman Frontier and end (or beginning) of the Hadrian’s Cycleway. For a different perspective on the whole Roman thing, look through the eyes of the native Celts at Rheged (Discovering Cumbria).
